David Adamson Designer Jewelry

     Akoya pearls, South Sea pearls, Tahitian pearls, saltwater and freshwater pearls, white pearls, pink pearls, black pearls and gray pearls.  There are pearls to suit every taste and budget, but the sheer number of choices can be daunting to the uninitiated pearl shopper.

      The following is a primer on this most singular of gems. The more one knows about cultured pearls, the better one can understand the differences among pearls and judge the quality of a specific piece of pearl jewelry.

       A natural pearl forms inside an oyster as a response to an irritant, a grain of sand or a worm that cannot be expelled. Today, most pearls are cultured pearls which means that they are created by implanting a tiny bit of shell bead into an oyster’s mantle. In both natural and cultured pearls, the oyster secretes layers of a substance called nacre around the irritant, and over time a pearl is formed.

      Akoya pearls are the classic round pearls that one associates with traditional pearl jewelry. They are harvested in saltwater and come in shades of cream and white, sometimes with pink or green overtones. South Sea pearls are newer to the jewelry business, but their distinctive charms have made them a favorite with jewelry designers and fashionable consumers. They are available in large sizes, 10 to 15 millimeters are common but they can be found in even larger sizes and are most commonly seen in white, silver and gold hues.

       Tahitian pearls are sometimes called Black Tahitian pearls, but they actually come in a variety of colors, including gray, bronze, black, purple and peacock green. The finest Tahitians also display a lively play of color on the surface of the nacre. In recent years, Chinese freshwater pearls have been produced in a wide variety of sizes, colors and qualities, which have made them more popular in the world jewelry market.

      Pearl prices can vary tremendously. Depth of nacre, color, shape, smoothness of surface and size are a few of the determining factors, but it can be dangerous to generalize in this regard. Perfectly round Akoyas bring high prices, but some uniquely shaped Black Tahitians may be even more valuable. One can, however, be unequivocal about the value of luster, the reflective glow unique to pearls. In all types of pearls, the deeper the luster, the more beautiful the pearl, and the greater its price.

     Consumers shopping for pearls will find a wider variety of styles and more moderate prices than ever, thanks to the availability of freshwater pearls. Freshwater cultured pearls from China offer less-expensive choices and continue to be in good supply, rounder and prettier than in the past. Plus, improved culturing processes allow these pearls that once looked like Rice Krispies to mirror elegant, round Akoyas.

     Nacre is the name of the substance secreted by oysters to create pearls. It is a unique material that displays a wonderfully pleasing interplay of light and color, but it is also relatively soft and porous, compared to other popular gems. Pearls are also susceptible to damage from chemicals. Thus, cosmetics, perfumes and hair care products should be applied before putting on pearls, and they should not be applied to parts of the body where they will touch your pearls.

-Heat can damage pearls. Blow-dry your hair before putting on pearl jewelry. The chemicals in pools, hot tubs and even in tap water can be too harsh for pearls.  Do not swim or shower while wearing pearls.

- Store pearl jewelry separately from other jewelry. Metals and other harder gemstones can scratch pearls. They are best stored in a soft cloth pouch or lined jewelry box.

- Do not store pearls in plastic. Nacre is an organic material that needs to breath.

- Restring pearl necklaces periodically, depending on how often they are worn. They definitely need to be restrung when the knots are discolored or the necklace appears stretched.

- Most experts recommend silk thread for pearl necklaces but nylon is also considered acceptable. The string should be knotted between each pearl. This prevents all the pearls in a strand from scattering should a break occur. Knotting also prevents the pearls from rubbing against each other, which can damage nacre.

- Wear your pearls often. The body's natural oils increase the luster and beauty of pearls - a wonderful fact which one can read as proof that nature surely did create the pearl for human adornment.



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